Tue, 20 Jul 2004
“Man Are My Arms Tired” Surf Report
Finally, Souther California has been visited by some good surf. Sunday morning I paddled out at Oceanside, hoping to catch the swell on the rise. While the sets initially were fairly large and meaty, when the tide changed the waves pretty much shut down. After paddling my ares off for 2 hours, I called it a morning and made my way back home. That night, my shoulders were as sore as I can remember.
I went out to my favorite reef break Monday morning, and although the waves I did catch were fun, conditions were a bit inconsistent and the swell still hadn't shown up in full force. Similar conditions were in store for the lunch break surf.
Giving my shoulders a break this AM, I decided to only head out on my lunch. What a day! The waves were large, peaky, and glassy. I dropped in on a few large lefts, air dropping into the biggest of the day. Duck diving one wave, my board slipped from my grasp and bashed the hell out of my right shin. Knowing that it may be quite some time until I get to surf waves like I was right now, I stayed out and had a great time. My shin lost a few layers of skin and has a nice sized goose-egg and bruise forming. No biggie - it was worth it!
posted at: 15:42 | path: /surf | permanent link to this entry