Tue, 13 Jan 2004

Big Swell Surf Report

Despite the conditions I found at my local beach break during yesterday's lunch, I headed back there today thinking that perhaps the swell may have backed down a bit. *oof!* No go... I paddled out for a few minutes, saw that even if I did eventually make it out that there weren't any shoulders to ride, and so sat inside and rode a few. Making my way in, I experienced the worst cold pain in my ears that I've ever experienced. Must be from all of the duck diving, I guess.

I think that tomorrow I'll have to head on down South a bit to a location that can handle this size a bit better. I checked out Swami's and it was crowded as heck, but looked damn fun.

posted at: 15:00 | path: /surf | permanent link to this entry