Mon, 12 Jan 2004
Return of the Employee Lunch Break Surf Report
I'm back from vacation, during which I surfed a grand total of three times. Now that I'm back at work and eyeing yet another molectomy on January 21st, I need to maximize my time in the water before the forced three week dry-dock period. Expect daily surf updates barring any coughing-up-a-lung virii.
Surf conditions today were big, mean and nasty. A couple of sets rolled through that were about 1.5x overhead, and I managed to not get punded by either. D Street simply could not hold this kind of size right now, so close outs were the rule. I saw a nicer left to the South, which I may try tomorrow. I caught one express elevator going DOWN, made the drop, and then had nowhere to go. As the tide dropped, the waves became significantly more menacing, so I chose to head in a bit early and surf another day.
My Quote of the Day: “For me, the victory is NOT how WELL I surf, but THAT I surf. If I surf well, then it is just a very nice (and rare) icing for the cake.” - Me.
posted at: 13:56 | path: /surf | permanent link to this entry