Mon, 07 Jul 2003

Lunch Break Surf Report

When we got down to the beach today, I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the sets which were rolling to the shore - some were easilly shoulder high! I had checked out the Southern California Swell Model page earlier in the day, and it was reading about 1.5 feet. Thus, I paddled out with great expectations, which were soon dashed.

After my first wave, I was caught inside and a few nice size sets pounded me as I struggled to get back out. After drinking my monthly allowance of sea water and coughing up a few hermit crabs, I eventually made it back out in the lineup. I saw Bob grab a wave, and then lost him as I tried to grab a few more waves for myself. I managed to grab one or two more, and went over the falls on a couple as well. Man, I haven't seen D street this unforgiving in quite a while.

Nearing the end of the lunch break, I thought I saw senor Bob on the beach, so I made my way in. It turns out that his board buckled during his second ride. Ack! What started out as a promising day ended up with Neptune humbling us, letting us know who is really in charge out there.

posted at: 14:20 | path: /surf | permanent link to this entry